Five days in Dubai, a flight via Istanbul landing in Sharjah instead of Dubai International, a hotel close to Palm Jumeirah, and plenty of honest impressions beyond the Instagram clichés – that pretty much sums up our trip from 9 to 14 May 2023. We're taking you through every stage: from getting there to where we stayed and the excursions we did, including every price we actually paid.
Step 0: Getting ready
Before every trip I get myself an eSIM, so I have mobile internet the moment I land, without roaming fees or having to hunt for a local SIM card at the airport. I usually go with Airalo or Yesim.
For the time our car spent at Stuttgart Airport, we booked parking through Airparks – for the entire period from 9 to 14 May we paid €42 in total.
Step 1: The flight – Stuttgart via Istanbul to Sharjah
We compared and booked our flight through Trip.com. In the end we went with Pegasus Airlines, which flew us to Dubai and back for €290 per person. Including seat reservation, that came to around €318 per person – according to our booking summary, exactly €317.52 and €318.66.
Compare flights on Trip.com →On the outbound leg we had a roughly four-hour layover in Istanbul at Sabiha Gökçen Airport. Once a layover runs past about two hours, it's worth considering whether a lounge pass is worth it. Yes, it's an extra expense – but uncomfortable waiting at the gate can wear you down, and a coffee or snack at the airport adds up fast anyway.
One more important note on the flight: we didn't land at Dubai International (DXB) but in Sharjah (SHJ) – which is also why the fare was so cheap. And here's the thing: you get what you pay for. There was a small meal served on board from Istanbul to Sharjah, but no entertainment system, and the seat didn't recline either.
Step 2: From Sharjah Airport to Dubai
Once we landed in Sharjah, we took a public taxi into central Dubai. I was skeptical at first, worried we'd get ripped off. But if the taxi runs on the meter, you really have nothing to worry about. What I strongly advise against: taxis that quote a fixed price – this happens more often right at the airport. Stay away, that's a rip-off.
If you want to play it safe, book an Uber instead. That way you know exactly what it'll cost you upfront. For the roughly one-hour ride, depending on time of day, expect to pay around €40.
Step 3: Where we stayed – Atana Hotel
We stayed at the Atana Hotel, close to Palm Jumeirah. For the five nights, our booking came to €339. We picked this hotel mainly for its proximity to a metro station – in our case, Dubai Internet City Metro Station. On Google Maps it looked closer than it actually was, though: it took a good 15 minutes on foot to reach the platform.
Check out Atana Hotel →Step 4: Getting around Dubai – the Nol Silver Card
The cheapest way to get around Dubai is the metro. For that, I'd recommend the Nol Silver Card: an anonymous chip card that you top up with an amount of your choice. It costs 25 AED, which already includes 19 AED of travel credit. You can use it for the metro, buses, water buses, and the Dubai tram. One exception: for bus line 105 to the Miracle Garden, you'll need a separate ticket.
That said, the metro doesn't reach every corner of the city. To get to the Dubai Frame and on to the Burj Khalifa, we took an Uber.
Step 5: Dubai Frame & Burj Khalifa
From about €45 per person, you can ride up the Burj Khalifa, the world's tallest building, to over 440 metres. Just the elevator ride up is spectacular – I won't give away too much more than that.
Get Burj Khalifa tickets →The best view of Palm Jumeirah, by the way, isn't from the island itself but from The View at the Palm.
Step 6: Desert excursion
On one day we treated ourselves to a desert excursion – a beautiful experience, though the temperatures were pushing the limit. On the drive out, the vehicle's thermometer showed 44°C.
On this excursion I fulfilled a small dream of mine and rode a snowboard down a dune – just a small one, but still. The programme also included a quad bike ride. During the briefing beforehand, we were sold headscarves, back then for around €10 each. Trust me, in that heat it was worth every cent. They were wrapped around our heads professionally, so we could actually face the sun with confidence.
The camel ride itself was fairly short and nothing special – though it did let us get some lovely sunset photos with the animals afterwards. The real highlight, for me, was dinner at the camp, accompanied by a lovely show. You could also dress up in traditional clothing and have your photo taken.
Step 7: Old Dubai – souks and an abra ride across the Creek
A visit to Old Dubai is a must. It's here that you get a real sense of how this metropolis grew out of very humble beginnings. Don't miss a ride on an abra across Dubai Creek. These open wooden boats still define the scene at Dubai Creek, serving locals and tourists alike as an affordable way to commute between the historic districts of Bur Dubai and Deira. The crossing costs just 1 AED and takes only a few minutes.
Old Dubai is home to four wonderful souks: the Gold Souk, Spice Souk, Textile Souk, and Perfume Souk. At the Gold Souk you can marvel at the world's largest gold ring, the Najmat Taiba – weighing around 64 kg, made up of roughly 58.7 kg of 21-carat gold and just over 5 kg of gemstones and Swarovski crystals. The Textile Souk was, for me personally, the least appealing: the vendors and shop owners were far too pushy, trying to hail you in every language imaginable to lure you into their stores. That was a real turn-off for me.
Dubai beyond the clichés
Here's what I learned about Dubai, and what social media probably doesn't show you: yes, Dubai is the city of the rich. But around 95% of the people there are ordinary folks just like you and me, going to work every day to make a living. You'll spot a supercar here and there for sure – but far less often than you'd be led to believe. And because most people live pretty normal lives, Dubai can also be affordable: you can easily find souvenirs from €1, and full meals for under €10. All of this reflects prices as of 2023 – they may well have changed since.
On the topic of alcohol
Since Dubai is in a Muslim country, the public sale of alcohol is prohibited. There are, however, dedicated tourist liquor stores, such as the African + Eastern shop in TECOM (Barsha Heights). There, tourists can identify themselves with their passport and then buy any type of alcohol in any quantity.
A note on Palm Jumeirah hotels
Palm Jumeirah is, of course, home to some gorgeous hotels that will try to tempt you into staying put. Just keep in mind: apart from the monorail, there's no public transport on the island. That means you'll always be relying on a taxi or Uber, which adds up quickly and gets impractical fast.
Our full cost breakdown
Here are the core costs of our trip for two people, exactly as they were billed. Not included are variable expenses such as Uber rides, food, souvenirs, the lounge pass, or the desert safari, since we didn't track those down to the exact euro.
| Item | Total (2 people) | Per person |
|---|---|---|
| Airparks parking (5 days) | €42.00 | €21.00 |
| Flight Stuttgart–Sharjah–Stuttgart (Pegasus, incl. seat reservation) | €636.18 | approx. €318.00 |
| Atana Hotel (5 nights) | €339.00 | €169.50 |
| Nol Silver Card (initial purchase) | approx. €12.50 | approx. €6.25 |
| Burj Khalifa ticket | from €90.00 | from €45.00 |
| Core costs total | approx. €1,119.68 | approx. €559.84 |
Frequently asked questions about our Dubai trip
Why does the flight to Dubai land in Sharjah (SHJ) instead of Dubai Airport (DXB)?
Budget airlines like Pegasus often fly into alternative airports such as Sharjah because landing fees are lower there. That saving is passed straight on to the ticket price – in exchange, you go without on-board extras like an entertainment system or a reclining seat.
What does the Nol Silver Card cost and what can I use it for?
The card costs 25 AED, including 19 AED of travel credit. You can use it to ride Dubai's metro, buses, water buses, and tram. The one exception: bus line 105 to the Miracle Garden requires a separate ticket.
Can tourists buy alcohol in Dubai?
Yes, at licensed shops such as African + Eastern in TECOM (Barsha Heights) – you just need to show your passport.
How much does an abra ride across Dubai Creek cost?
Just 1 AED for a crossing that takes only a few minutes, between Bur Dubai and Deira.
Is a lounge pass worth it during a layover in Istanbul?
Once your layover runs past about two hours, we'd say yes – it costs extra, but it saves you from the uncomfortable wait at the gate.
All providers at a glance
To make rebooking or double-checking easy, here are all the providers we used on this trip once more: flight comparison on Trip.com, Airalo eSIM, Yesim eSIM, Sabiha Gökçen lounge access, Atana Hotel Dubai, Burj Khalifa tickets, The View at the Palm, and desert safari.
Disclosure: This article contains affiliate links. If you book through them, we earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. All prices, experiences, and opinions in this article are based on our own trip from 9 to 14 May 2023 and may have changed since.
