In November 2023 we set off on a multi-country trip across Scandinavia: Stockholm, Helsinki, a side trip to Tallinn, and finally straight into the heart of a Finnish winter, at the Santa Claus Village in Rovaniemi. Right in the run-up to Christmas, it turned out to be exactly the right time to travel – it got us in the mood for the festive season early. Here's the whole trip, step by step.
Step 0: Parking at Stuttgart Airport & finding flights
To start the trip stress-free, we booked cheap parking through Airparks near Stuttgart Airport in advance. Convenient – you just drop off the car and don't have to think about it again.
We found the cheapest flight from Stuttgart to Stockholm via Momondo.de – a price comparison is always worth it, especially for multi-city routes like ours.
Step 1: Arrival in Stockholm
As soon as we'd collected our luggage at Arlanda Airport, we took the Arlanda Express into central Stockholm. A really pleasant ride, and after barely 20 minutes we were already standing at Stockholm Central Station. With the pre-Christmas mood already in full swing, the station was beautifully lit, bathing our arrival in warm light – a lovely first impression of the city.
From the station we walked to our hotel, the Scandic Go on Sankt Eriksgatan 20. That way we got to see a bit more of the city and kept an eye out for somewhere to have dinner along the way.
Step 2: Gamla Stan and the Vasa Museum
The next morning we took the metro to Gamla Stan, Stockholm's old town. After thoroughly exploring the winding alleyways, the Vasa Museum was next on the list.
A quick bit of background: the Vasa Museum in Stockholm is a maritime museum housing the spectacular find and story of the Swedish warship Vasa. The galleon sank on her maiden voyage in 1628 and is the only surviving, best-preserved ship from the 17th century anywhere in the world. Around 95% of the original parts, plus hundreds of intricately carved wooden sculptures, are on display there – absolutely worth seeing. We booked the combined ticket with the neighbouring Vrak Museum of Wrecks, including a German audio guide.
Watch out for the taxi trap: To get back to the hotel and pick up our luggage, we took an Uber – the price was completely fair. For an almost identical route shortly afterwards, from the hotel to the harbour, a taxi driver flat-out ripped us off: we paid roughly three times as much. Our tip: in Stockholm, really do use Uber or a similar app instead of hailing a taxi off the street.
Step 3: By ferry to Helsinki
From Stockholm's harbour we continued on to Helsinki with Viking Line. The crossing took just under 17 hours – not a problem at all, since we had a lovely windowless cabin and could go to sleep whenever we liked. Having our own, if small, bathroom made the time on board a lot more pleasant.
On board there was a generous selection of bars, cafés, and duty-free shops to while away the time. Outside the cabin, you're free to move around the entire ship and step out on deck for fresh air – it genuinely brought on that clichéd Titanic feeling.
Book the Stockholm–Helsinki ferry →
Small heads-up: there's a time difference between Sweden and Finland – Helsinki is always an hour ahead of Stockholm.
Step 4: Helsinki – nicely located, but not for us
From the harbour we walked to our accommodation, the Forenom Aparthotel Helsinki Kamppi, with contactless check-in. The location was genuinely great, but the place itself was nothing special: the rooms are converted office space – fairly large, with their own bathroom, but the whole thing had a distinctly Eastern-Bloc feel to both the building and the interior, and unfortunately it felt that way too. On top of that, the access code changed daily without us being told, so we suddenly found ourselves locked out at the entrance.
Honestly, Helsinki itself didn't do much for me. The city has nothing to offer as far as I'm concerned – neither particularly beautiful nor particularly exciting. Which worked out well, since we'd set the next day aside for a side trip to Tallinn in Estonia.
Step 5: Day trip to Tallinn
The Viking XPRS got us to Tallinn in about 2.5 hours. We only had a little time there, but what we did see, we really loved. To explore the city properly, though, I'd recommend at least one overnight stay – something we sadly hadn't planned for.
Step 6: By train to Rovaniemi
Back in Helsinki, we set off the next day just before half past eight in the morning on the train to Rovaniemi. Via Tampere and Oulu, we reached beautifully snow-covered Rovaniemi after just under 8.5 hours. We'd booked a private compartment for ourselves in advance, so we had the space to ourselves, could stow our luggage safely, and didn't need to worry about theft.
An important note for anyone who likes a beer on the go: bringing your own alcohol to drink on the train was not allowed. There was a dining car where you could order beer – half a litre cost around €7 at the time, which is why we didn't have too many. You also had to drink it there in the dining car; taking it back to your compartment wasn't permitted.
Step 7: Arrival in Rovaniemi & SantaSport Resort
From the station in Rovaniemi we took an Uber to our accommodation – the price was fair and the ride pleasantly short.
SantaSport Resort is a sports hotel, and during our stay it was full of athletes from all over the world. We were able to use the large swimming pool as well as the spa and sauna area for free at certain times. Right next to the resort is the Lappi Areena, home to second-division Finnish ice hockey – and we were lucky enough to catch a game.
Near the resort there was a good choice of restaurants and discount supermarkets to stock up on food and drink. The picturesque, snowy area around the resort was simply stunning. What surprised me most was that there were public outdoor ice rinks anyone could use for skating or a game of hockey – something you just don't see back home in football-mad Germany.
Step 8: The Santa Claus Village
After the ice hockey game, we headed to the Santa Claus Village the next morning. The bus gets you to the village fairly quickly and easily. Just be aware it can get pretty crowded – the next bus might be full, meaning you'll have to wait for the one after.
Right on the Arctic Circle, inside the Santa Claus Village, we couldn't resist posing in front of the webcam that live-streams 24/7.
Entry to the village itself, by the way, is free. It's nicely laid out and offers a handful of attractions. Just be prepared: the individual attractions are heavily geared towards tourists and priced accordingly. Even the reindeer sleigh rides cost a small fortune for a fairly short experience. And if you want to pose with Santa in person, bring plenty of patience – a wait of an hour is less the exception and more the rule.
Step 9: The journey back on the Santa Claus Express
We started the journey home the next evening on the Santa Claus Express night train. This time we had our own room with bunk beds and a private bathroom – pretty cramped, but private, meaning we could also enjoy the beer or wine we'd brought without anyone seeing. After just over 12 hours, we arrived back at Helsinki station.
From there it was on by train to Helsinki-Vantaa Airport, then back to Stuttgart via a stopover in Munich.
Alcohol & eSIM: Practical info for Scandinavia and Estonia
In Sweden, you can buy alcoholic drinks up to 3.5% ABV in supermarkets; in Finland, the limit is 8%. Stronger drinks like wine or spirits are only sold in state-run monopoly stores in both countries – Systembolaget in Sweden, Alko in Finland.
Before every trip I get myself an eSIM, though for this particular tour it wasn't actually necessary: travellers from the EU don't need a separate SIM card in Sweden, Finland, or Estonia, since EU roaming applies. If you're travelling from outside the EU, I'd recommend Airalo or Saily for a hassle-free eSIM without roaming headaches.
Our total cost for the Scandinavia road trip
Note: all figures are the prices we actually paid, for two people (travel period 13–20 November 2023). The one exception is the Arlanda Express: the price varies by season and booking time (from around €20/person, one way), so this item is marked with * and excluded from the subtotal.
| Item | Total (2 people) | Per person |
|---|---|---|
| Airparks parking (Stuttgart) | €63.00 | €31.50 |
| Flights Stuttgart–Stockholm / Helsinki–Stuttgart (Lufthansa, 1 stopover each way) | €587.99 | €294.00 |
| Arlanda Express* | from €40.00 | from €20.00 |
| Scandic Go Hotel, Stockholm (1 night) | €101.00 | €50.50 |
| Vasa Museum (combined ticket with Vrak Museum) | €57.04 | €28.52 |
| Viking Line ferry, Stockholm–Helsinki (cabin) | €94.00 | €47.00 |
| Forenom Aparthotel, Helsinki (2 nights) | €172.46 | €86.23 |
| Viking XPRS, Tallinn day trip (return) | €76.00 | €38.00 |
| Train Helsinki–Rovaniemi (Omio, compartment) | €108.00 | €54.00 |
| SantaSport Resort, Rovaniemi (2 nights) | €316.38 | €158.19 |
| Santa Claus Village (entry) | €0.00 | €0.00 |
| Santa Claus Express night train, Rovaniemi–Helsinki | €159.00 | €79.50 |
| Subtotal (excl. Arlanda Express*) | €1,734.87 | €867.44 |
* Starting price, not a fixed total – shown separately.
Frequently asked questions
Do EU citizens need a SIM card for Sweden, Finland, and Estonia?
No. Thanks to EU roaming, you can use your home data allowance at no extra cost. Only travellers from outside the EU should sort out an eSIM like Airalo or Saily in advance.
How long does the ferry from Stockholm to Helsinki take?
The Viking Line crossing takes just under 17 hours overnight. With a cabin it's completely relaxed, since you can simply go to sleep while the ship is underway.
Is a day trip from Helsinki to Tallinn worth it?
Definitely, though one day is barely enough. The Viking XPRS crossing takes around 2.5 hours each way. If you want to see more of Tallinn, plan for at least one overnight stay.
Can you drink your own alcohol on the train to Rovaniemi?
No, bringing your own alcohol to drink on the train isn't allowed. Beer is only available in the dining car, and it has to be drunk there too.
What's the best way to get to the Santa Claus Village in Rovaniemi?
The bus from Rovaniemi gets you there fairly quickly. Just build in a bit of buffer time, as the buses can get very full.
Is the Santa Claus Village expensive?
Yes, the village is heavily geared towards tourists and priced accordingly – especially the reindeer sleigh rides and a personal meet-and-greet with Santa, for which you should expect a wait of up to an hour.
All booking links at a glance
Airparks parking, Stuttgart · Arlanda Express · Scandic Go Hotel, Stockholm · Vasa Museum ticket · Forenom Aparthotel Helsinki · Omio (Helsinki–Rovaniemi train & Stockholm–Helsinki / Helsinki–Tallinn ferries) · SantaSport Resort, Rovaniemi · Airalo eSIM · Saily eSIM
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